training "belay clinic" common belay skills and advanced trad belays - July 13, 2019

THE OBJECTIVE OF THIS CLINIC IS . . . a get-together devoted to the analysis and solution of concrete problems and/or to the acquiring of specific skills or knowledge. Please come prepared, or be prepared, to share your thoughts about belaying, any information you have that will help make belaying a functional part of climbing, so that our belaying skills can contribute to a fun and low risk experience while in pursuit of Indoor Climbing, Rock Climbing, Caving, Canyoneering, Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, and other related technical activities. A thought: You may notice I did not use the words "low risk rather than safe?" "There is always risk, albeit may be low." Is it safe, or low risk? The use of the word "safe" could lead to complacency. Why not relax and let our guard down, "It is safe."? There is always risk, albeit is sometimes quite low. Staying "Situationally Aware" can prevent many accidents. Situational Awareness and understanding Risk Exposure is critical to maintaining a low risk environment. If we accept our pursuits as involving risk, even though the risks may be low; we are more likely to stay alert, and anticipate potential problems. For example; a well known climber experienced an accident related to belaying. She went through the "On belay, Belay on," stuff, and then climbed to the top of a climb. She yelled for tension and then requested her belayer to lower her to the ground. As she leaned back to be lowered, her knot came untied and she fell. A tree helped to break her fall and she lived through it. WHAT WENT WRONG AND HOW CAN WE AVOID THIS SORT OF THING? Ideas and questions we will consider regarding belaying Your ideas, experiences and thoughts are important to the group. What are the belay commands or verbal words we should use while belaying? Things you would like to get from the clinic? Questions for the group. Things you would like to share with participants? Demonstrations you might be able to show to help the group understand belaying better? How do anchors, their placement, and location affect out belays Should the belayer be anchored? There is a line of thinking that suggests it is o.k., and maybe even desirable that the belayer be pulled from their feet, and into the air (become airborne) while catching a fall. Otherwise act as dynamic counter weight? What do you feel about this idea, and what are your experiences and observations of this activity? Stories, comments and suggestions for the group? Your personal thoughts and your experiences with belaying? Discuss the purpose of a belay and types of belays o Belays while in the gym o Belays on sport routes o Belays while making traditional climbs - Fall Factors What they mean to us is:

Organizer:Douglas Hansen
Phone:801-664-3797
Date:Sat Jul 13 2019
Meeting Place:Registration required